суббота, 23 января 2016 г.

#бьютинаболело Диванные парфнонконформисты выходят на охоту за «грязными» парфюмерами

Про людей, воюющих с лявиэбелльными проходняками, рабов ниш-миш и других борцов за чистоту «носов».


Фото маэстро отсюда 

Вот снова подгорело у меня от комментариев на Косметисточке и еще кое-где. Оказывается, человек, который был замечен в создании великих парфюмерных композиций, создавая что-то для сетевиков или масс-маркета, видите ли, автоматически становится «обоже, как он мог так низко пасть?!».

Откуда этот снобизм? Или это вообще не снобизм, а что-то похуже? Чтобы понять суть парфюмерной индустрии, даже не нужно работать в департаменте маркетинга, для этого даже можно не читать интервью с Эдди Роши из Le Labo которое, кстати, дает совершенно исчерпывающие инсайты — в парфюмерии, как и везде, все совершенно как в жизни. Парфюмер берет бриф, смотрит в него, пишет, что ему нужно, закуполог выкидывает половину ингредиентов, а еще половину — заменяет более дешевыми аналогами, и еще 7 кругов бюрократического ада. 

Я в таких случаях всегда задаю вопрос: «Любите ли вы Брамса то, что делает Франсис Кюркджан?». И чаще всего получаю от знатока положительный ответ вкупе с реверансами в сторону Аква Универсалис. Лицо борца за чистоту «носов» очень быстро омрачается, когда я рассказываю ему, что Франсису принадлежит авторство таких нетленок, как Cerisier en Fleurs Yves Rocher, Amethyst Fatale Oriflame, ароматов для Lancaster и Guess, Escada и Caudalie. Но ведь не станем мы меньше восхищаться Eau Noire Christian Dior или Acqua di Parma Iris Nobile Acqua di Parma авторства того же Кюркджана? Не станем. 

А вот, что не станут делать герои этой заметки — они не решатся на слепой затест двух парфюмерных композиций, потому что побоятся сесть в лужу, с ходу определив Mure et Musc Cologne L'Artisan Parfumeur в сетевые мыльные свежаки, а Eau des Baux L'Occitane en Provence — в заправские нишево-мишевые унисексы.

У меня все. Еще про снобизм тута.

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